The history of Hamfrith Farm

Saturday, 17 August 2024

Mark Gorman (@Flatshistorian) continues his series on the farms of pre-suburban Forest Gate and district with a look at the history of Hamfrith Farm, some of which is today occupied by Godwin and Woodgrange schools.

Hamfrith (literally “Ham Wood”) was originally part of the lands of Stratford Langthorne Abbey, the great Cistercian monastery on the banks of the river Lea. In 1538, after the abbey’s dissolution Hamfrith, together with the rest of West Ham manor, was acquired by the king. At the end of the C17th George Booth was given a 99-year lease for the manor of West Ham for services to the crown. Booth later made a grant which divided the manor into two parts. He assigned Hamfrith farm (which had been made out of Hamfrith wood) to Sir John Blount, a director of the South Sea Company, for 69 years, starting in 1733.

After the South Sea Bubble burst Blount was ruined, and his estates were sold. The Stratford and Hamfrith property was bought in 1734 by John Tylney, later Earl Tylney. It was then inherited in his family until the end of the 18th century.

Map of Essex by John Chapman and Peter Andre 1777. The map shows Hamfrith incorrectly marked as "Wood Grange" (sic), Woodgrange farm is the collection of buildings to the south of the Eagle and Child pub.

Both parts of the manor remained Crown freehold until the end of the 18th century, but the demesne land (land in the manor retained by the owner for his own use) and the manorial rights were then sold separately. In 1787 the whole manor contained 290 acres demesne lands, and 54 acres of commons, most of which formed part of Wanstead Flats. The demesne lands were mainly scattered in the southern marshes, the only substantial tenement (occupied buildings) being Hamfrith farm, 128 acres lying north of the London-Ilford road, on both sides of the boundary between East Ham and West Ham, occupied by John Greenhill.

Map c 1800 showing the Greenhill holdings. Their land streches from Forest Gate in the west to what is now Manor Park, and bordered the southern edge of Wanstead Flats, as well as fields south of the road to Romford. Hamfrith farm was east of the Eagle and Child on the map.
 

By 1799, when the occupiers were William, John and Richard Greenhill, Hamfrith comprised 148 acres. William Greenhill bought the freehold of Hamfrith Farm (without manorial rights, which were sold separately) from the Crown for £8,642. At this stage the Greenhills had substantial holdings both north and south of the Romford Road. William Greenhill's father, John, was said to have been the first large-scale potato grower for the London market, probably from the middle of the C18th, and his son had continued to develop the business. By the 1820s the Greenhills were employing upwards of 100 workers, mainly Irish.

By this time, however, William Greenhill seems to have run into financial difficulties, as between 1824-8 he mortgaged the farm for a total of £9,000. He died in 1832, leaving over £50,000 (approx £4.7m today) and directing that Hamfrith should be held in trust for life, and should later be sold. Financial problems continued for his heirs, however, for in 1835 William's son, John, was declared bankrupt and the contents of Hamfrith farm were auctioned off, while three months later part of the farm itself, described as "130 acres of superior land, in the highest state of cultivation" was offered to let. John's brother, William, occupied Plashet Hall at the time, which also had farm buildings and 145 acres of farmland, much of it south of Romford Road.

 

Hamfrith Farm and "Potatoe Hall" on the 1797 draft Ordnance Survey map.

Their house, Plashet Hall, on Romford Road, was known locally as "Potato Hall". The name "Potatoe Hall" also appeared on the draft Ordnance Survey map, made in 1797 (see above), showing that the Greenhill's business was nationally recognised.

The trustees finally sold the entire estate of 300 acres, as well as Plashet House, "a most Desirable and Gentlemanly residence" in 1850. The farm was described as "superior and productive Market Garden land", but significant emphasis was also put on the extensive building frontage "to very excellent roads".

The estate was eventually bought by Samuel Gurney (see here), owner of the neighbouring manor of Woodgrange and Ham House, for £17,710. Hamfrith then comprised 131 acres, bisected by the main line Eastern Counties Railway. John Greenhill, despite having to sell off his interest in his father's estate in 1836, appears to have enjoyed a comfortable life after moving to Leytonstone, where he died in 1869.

The 1863 6-inch OS map, showing that Hamfrith Farm has become West Ham Hall with an entrance where Chestnut Avenue meets Avenue Road. The red line running through the map is the projected route of the Tottenham and Forest Gate Railway, opened in 1894.

 
West Ham Hall c1890

John Gurney, grandson of Samuel, sold most of Hamfrith in 1872 to the British land Company, who in turn, in 1874, sold it to the Manor Park Cemetery Company. The eastern part was used for the cemetery, while the remainder was gradually developed by the Cemetery Company for building. Sebert Road, built up by 1878, runs through the centre of the Hamfrith lands.

The site of West Ham Hall is now occupied by Godwin primary school
Hamfrith farm-house had existed at least since the early 18th century. In the 19th century it became a gentleman's residence, with ornamental gardens. From the 1860s it was known as West Ham Hall. It stood on the north side of Sebert Road between Avenue Road and Cranmer Road. A carriage drive stretched north to the modern-day junction of Avenue Road and Chestnut Avenue.

About 1890 it was acquired by the Tottenham and Forest Gate Railway Company, which was then building its line, via Wanstead Park, to Woodgrange Park. West Ham Hall was still standing in 1893, when the company put it up for sale, with other surplus land. The house was bought by West Ham School Board, which demolished it. Today it is the site of Woodgrange and Godwin schools.

The main entrance to Hamfrith Farm was at the junction of Avenue Road and Chestnut Avenue. The farm gates were where the post box is today.

 



Woodgrange Road: 1990 - 2024, a photographic essay

Saturday, 10 August 2024

We stumbled upon a captivating collection of photographs on Flikr, showcasing scenes of Forest Gate captured in three different sessions in and around 1990 by the talented photographer Peter Marshall. With his generous permission, we are delighted to present a unique 'Then and Now' photographic essay, primarily centered around Woodgrange Road.

We are most grateful to the contemporary local photographer Igoris (Iggy) Taran for his 2024 take on the locations originally featured almost 35 years ago. 

You can find out more about Peter and Igoris and their work in the footnote to this article.

The changes between the two sets of photos are striking and barely need commentary, but it seems sensible to provide some explanation and context for some images and their locations.

Although there are very noticeable changes, there are less obvious similarities. Each pair of images exhibits simultaneously change and similarity (same building, different function, same function, different appearance, same features, different layout or colouring, etc). 

It is almost like a trip down Schrodinger's Street! Plus ca change!

Music venues

Woodgrange Road and its offshoots have played an important role in local musical history, as we have written about frequently on this blog. Two of the significant venues, the Lotus Club (featured here) and De Underground, which we hope to feature in the future, were still in operation in 1992. The locations still exist—but as flats now—and in one case, has a very different external appearance.

De Underground

De Underground was an important venue in the development of contemporary urban music. It operated from 18 Sebert Road from 1991 - 1996. Below is Peter Marshall's 1992 shot of it.

18 Sebert Road 1992

Its role was significant enough for Newham council to erect a blue plaque by it in May 2021 in recognition of its role in the "development of UK hardcore, jungle, and drum and bass music." The owners of number 18 would not give permission for it to be erected on their wall, so it was placed next door - see below:

The plaque in situ - now removed

Proudly displaying the plaque, before it was placed on the wall was one of De Underground's key figures, Uncle 22. See below:

Uncle 22 - with the plaque

How different that 18 Sebert Road location looks today—it is home to some pretty shabby-looking flats. Number 16 has recently been renovated, during which the plaque was removed and has yet to be replaced.

18 Sebert Road, today

The Lotus Club

The Lotus Club operated at the other end of Woodgrange Road, above what is now Poundland. Below is a photo of the entrance to the club, tucked away around the corner:
Lotus Club - Post Office Approach - 1991

And here is that same entrance today. Largely the same appearance, still an entrance, but now to more shabby-looking flats. There is something rather sad about ground-breaking venues of 35 years ago becoming anonymous housing today. But, that's part of the story of change of purpose and continuity of buildings:

Entrance to a block of flats - 2024

Eagle and Child figurines

When the Eagle and Child pub—the one with the longest continuous history in Forest Gate—was refurbished in the 1890s, some distinctive figurines were placed on the facia board. Over 130 years later, they survive, but in a neglected state.


Above- Peter Marshall's 1992 photos
Peter captured them in 1992, looking quite spruced up next to the nameplate of what was a pretty seedy and rough pub by then.















 








Today, the pub has gone, transformed into the Woodgrange Pharmacy. But the figurines have that uncared-for look about them.














Above Iggy Taran's 2024 photos





They are the same objects on a building with different functions and care plans!
















Moon House

This Chinese takeaway has been a long-term fixture on Woodgrange Road. When Peter captured it in 1992 it looked like your archetypal "Chinese Chippy" of the day, as shown below:
 
Moon House 1992

The location, name, and function have remained constant - and so has the family! When we showed the current staff the earlier image, they immediately recognised it as their childhood home/shop. The next generation now manages the take-away, with a far wider selection of dishes and an altogether more modern appearance.

Moon House, 2024

Forest Tavern, clocktower and station kiosk

Same kiosk, different roof fabric, same clocktower, different place, same pub, different name!

1992

 
2024

14 Sebert Road

Same shop, same door, different goods!

1992 baby clothes and second-hand shop

2024 - Pizza Haven

Tyre shops

From the tyre shop of 1992 to the tyre shop today!

Peter Marshall took photos of 84 Woodgrange Road, which was labelled a tyre shop, but had clearly been turned into a furniture store, retaining the old facia board. That space is now The Globe, an Albanian restaurant. 

Same place, very different appearance.

The same could be said of 24-26 Woodford Road, which he also photographed. It has been transformed from Kasey's (?) in 1992 to today's local tyre shop. It has the same function, but in a different location!

84 Woodgrange Road

1992 tyre shop, turned furniture store 


Today - Albanian-run coffee shop and restaurant
24-28 Woodford Road

All change! Different feel, look, and purpose.

1992 - Entrance to what we believe to have been Kasey's motorbike shop
2024 - highly recommended tyre shop!

Blondies - 473 Romford Road

It's not quite Woodgrange Road, but here we have the same shop, same location, but different offerings, with tanning and tattooing added to the selection!


Blondies - 1992

Blondies - 2024
Graffiti

Same medium, different subject matter, and different locations on Woodgrange Road!

1991-2





2024





Street life

Four of the locations of Peter Marshall's photos of street life on Woodgrange Road in 1991/91 offer interesting comparisons today.

Young drivers

The location is the same, as is the fact that the shop to the right is a butcher's. The change is that it is now Halal. The toy car has gone.

 1991


2024


People on the street

Same location, different demographic. The shop in the background was Woolworth, the same building today is the Tesco Express.

1991


2024


Near the bus stop

The same location, equally diverse demographic. The children's play train has been replaced by a soulless, secure metal box. A striking difference between these two photos is the considerable increase in street furniture in the contemporary one, a feature recurring in many of the contrasting photographs above.

1991


2024


Tyre shop - street life

The 1990's tyre shop, turned 2024 restaurant was featured above. Below are street life scenes outside it: same sentiment (adult(s) and child), different ethnicity, from the same photo-shoots.

 1992


2024


If any readers have photographs of earlier-era Forest Gate locations that would offer interesting contrasts to the contemporary look and feel of a place, we'd be happy to consider running a feature similar to this one. Just get in touch! 

Footnote
'Then' photographer, Peter Marshall writes: "I began taking photographs around 1970, later teaching and writing about photography and moving into photography full-time around 2000. My first major project was on Hull and was exhibited there in 1983 and was followed by work on the Lea Valley, the Thames, Paris and more. I've photographed buildings and events across London since the 1970s and in this century have concentrated on protests which I still regularly photograph. My pictures have been in various exhibitions and some are in collections, including the Museum of London. They have been published widely in newspapers, magazines and books, including over 15 I've self-published on Blurb. My websites include >RE:PHOTO blog, My London Diary, Hull Photos and the River Lea/Lee Valleyand I now have over 30,000 pictures on Flickr.
 
'Now' photographer, Igoris is a London-based photographer who works with portraiture, documentary and landscape photography. Currently part of an exhibition curated by Johny Pitts at the Hayward Gallery: After the End of History: British Working Class Photography 1989-2024. Contact: picsfromiggy@gmail.com, website: igoristaran.com Contact:picsfromiggy@gmail.com, website: igoristaran.com.