Showing posts with label Stratford. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stratford. Show all posts

A Forest Gate memoir of Benjamin Zephaniah

Wednesday, 10 January 2024

Forest Gate author and community activist, Derek Smith, pays tribute to, and shares local memories of, his pal, the recently deceased poet, Benjamin Zephaniah.

Benjamin Zephaniah (1958 – 2023)

I first met Benjamin Zephaniah shortly after he came to London in 1980. He was in his early 20s, a Rastafarian with long dreadlocks. He had left Birmingham out of necessity, where he says in his autobiography (The Life and Rhymes of Benjamin Zephaniah Poet), he was on the wrong side of the law, and had to get out or he’d end up dead. A good reason to leave town. Besides which, he wanted be a poet. A crazy aspiration for a dyslexic young man. But he had a bundle of poems which he’d got typed up. He now wanted to make them into a book and get moving. He was a young man in a hurry.

Benjamin went to Centreprise in Hackney with his poems. Centreprise were, in their heyday, a large community bookshop in Dalston with a cafe, running lots of writing classes, and had published a string of community publications. But Centreprise had got too respectable; they didn’t like his references to cannabis. Their funders would object. Benjamin would not withdraw the references on principle, he was a Rasta, after all. So they rejected him.

I have heard since regrets from former members of Centreprise in missing what would have been their biggest coup. But Benjamin, not deterred, came to The Whole Thing, our bookshop and cafe at 53 West Ham Lane, Stratford, a sort of poor man’s Centreprise. Cannabis didn’t offend us; we didn’t have funders to please. And some of us were partial to the odd spliff.

The Whole Thing, 53 West Ham Lane, Stratford

I said to him, let me have the poems and I’ll read them overnight. He agreed and we arranged to meet the next day. That night, I went through the poems and put them in three piles: Good, OK, and weak. I thought I’d have troubles when we met, as although he had some good poems, some weren’t so hot and in my opinion shouldn’t be published. But writers can be touchy, and, being too close to their work, can’t always tell the good from the bad.

When he came into the shop. I told him about the three piles I had made up, and waited for his reaction. Without even looking at which heap the poems were in, he said, much to my surprise and relief, just publish the good ones.

This impressed me, as it was obvious he had high standards. It was of course the right thing to do, if you want to get anywhere. I just hoped that my judgement was good. Gill Hay took over the publishing and printing side. And we brought our his first book in 1980, entitled Pen Rhythm.

A first edition of Pen Rhythm, published by The Whole Thing

Pen Rhythm was a very basic publication. A pamphlet rather than a book, stapled in the middle with a long arm stapler, and printed by the local printing co-op who had only an A4 offset litho. Upstairs in The Whole Thing, we laid out the pages and the covers on the floor and, me, Benjamin and Gill put the book together. Very cottage industry.

We made hardly any money on the book, sold a few copies in the shop, but gave most of them to Benjamin to sell at his gigs. Centreprise, I am sure would have sold tens of thousands, but we were lousy capitalists. The Whole Thing was a workers co-op; Benjamin liked the way we worked and joined us for a few years.

The Whole Thing was sublet to us, and we had a range of activities to raise money to buy the lease from the lease holder. One of these was a banquet, where Benjamin did one of his first gigs. I had not seen him perform before. He had helped with the cooking and then went upstairs to get changed. I recall, he was impressively dressed in a blue Afro tunic. It wasn’t a reading as he knew his poems by heart. And boy, could he deliver, with both power and feeling. We were spellbound. I thought, that guy is going to go places.

Benjamin helping with the cooking, Derek (beard) to his left, Gill Hay at the rear

He did. Incredibly quickly. The early 80s were a very political time. Margaret Thatcher was in power and Benjamin’s poems hit the zeitgeist amongst those of us in opposition to her policies. Much of his poetry was political, especially against the sus laws, where black people could be stopped and searched on suspicion by the police. One of Benjamin’s most popular poems is: ‘Dis Policeman Keeps on Kicking Me to Death. An ode on the perennial violent cop. With high unemployment and the National Front on the march, Benjamin quickly found his audience. The crowds at his gigs got bigger and bigger.

An early electrifying performance from Benjamin Zephaniah

Newham Community Housing (NCH) had an office at The Whole Thing, in an upstairs room. NCH had persuaded the Council to let it have its empty properties on licence prior to their being rehabilitated or demolished for various schemes. Most of us at The Whole Thing lived in short life housing co-ops that had got their houses from NCH. Benjamin needed somewhere to live, and helped set up Umoja housing co-op which, in turn, got its houses from NCH.

Cramped bookshop space at The Whole Thing

Benjamin was a member of Umoja for a number of years, and then bought a house on Roman Road, East Ham, where he lived until 2008. He was a night person, often writing in the early hours. While living in East Ham, he would often drive to Wanstead Flats at around 2am and have a run around the Flats, loving the quietness and the dark.

Benjamin getting stuck in with Derek in the workers' co-op

He worked at The Whole Thing for over two years, until his performances and his writing took over and his stage became the world. There was talk a few years ago of Benjamin being poet laureate. He gave that suggestion short shrift, it would have been a total sell out, and apart from that, he said:

‘Don't take my word, go check the verse.

Cause every laureate gets worse’

As I write, there is talk of putting a plaque at 53 West Ham Lane, the site of the Whole Thing, now the Sawmill cafe, where his first book was published and he worked for a number of years. He was a pal and a champion.

A nod at our neighbours: Abbey Mills pumping station. Stratford

Sunday, 30 October 2016


Newham's first Heritage Week is over and early impressions were that it was a great success.  For Forest Gate locals the highlights would have included local historians (and significant contributors to this blog) - Peter Williams and Mark Gorman's packed-out (100 people plus)  presentation at The Gate on Gentrification in Forest Gate over the last 170 years. So popular was the talk that they will be re-running it at The Wanstead Tap (see footnote for details), in late November.

Another delight was a rare opportunity to visit Abbey Mills pumping station in Stratford.  This has variously been described as the Cathedral of Sewage, and earlier as the Mosque in the Marshes (to describe its original immediate setting and appearance). It was constructed on the former lands of Stratford's Langthorne Abbey - hence the name.


Woodcut of the original building,
 with minaret-like chimneys

The photos in this blog, gleaned from a number of sources (to whom we express our gratitude), illustrate why the visit was such a delight.  Details of how you may be able to gain access, in the future, are in the footnote.


"The Cathedral of Sewage" - today

For centuries London was drained by the various rivers, such as the Fleet, Tyburn and Hounds Ditch that ran into the Thames.  With the great growth of population in the nineteenth century and the development of rudimentary forms of toilets and running water, the Thames began to fill with raw sewerage, causing major public health problems.


Tour of the "Mosque in the
marshes", soon after its opening
 This culminated in what became known as "The Big Stink" in 1858, where the pungency was so great immediately outside Parliament, that the politicians moved out temporarily to Cornwall, to avoid it.

The Metropolitan Board of Works, one of the earlier manifestations of London-wide local government, commissioned its chief engineer Joseph Bazalgette to find a way of addressing the problem.


Joseph Bazalgette's, whose
 sewerage  system ended
 at Abbey Mills

His solution was gloriously simple, although it took a major civil engineering feat to implement.  It was to build a huge system of sewers which took the sewerage from central London to the far reaches of the Thames and deposit it there, where it was then pumped (untreated) into the Lower reaches of the Thames.




Stratford, Forest Gate and surrounding areas were seen at the time as being almost literally beyond the pale.  London moved all its smelly problems and potential health hazards to this land beyond the River Lea.  So "stinky industries" were driven to what more recently has become the Olympic Park area, sewerage to Abbey Mills and Beckton and cemeteries to Forest Gate and surrounds - where there are five.


Prestigious party gathers for the opening
 of a sewage works' pumping station
 - an unlikely sounding caption

Bazalgette's scheme most dramatically pushed the Thames back from its original shores in central London (The Strand) to its current limit - the Embankment - and a systems of sewers was constructed under the reclaimed land. These sewers continued until they reached the site of the pumping station in Stratford.




The engineering feat was remarkable, and conducted within seven years. But the significance of the achievement was buried under ground.  To celebrate its importance, the Abbey Mills pumping station was erected - at the end of the sewers - as a magnificent building, and testimony to the considerable engineering feat.




The rest of this blog concentrates on the architecture of the site, rather than the engineering, about which much has been written elsewhere.

The mills were constructed at a then cost of £200,000; a very considerable sum, considering the whole of the sewer system that ended its course there only cost £3million.




Bazalgette explained the need for pumping stations, rather than simply allowing the sewage to flow unassisted into the Thames:


The fall in the Thames isn't above three inches; for sewage we want a couple of feet (in order to ensure that the sewers are self cleaning), and that kept taking us down below the river and when we got to a certain depth we had to pump up again. It was certainly a very troublesome job
 We would sometimes spend weeks in drawing out plans and then suddenly come across a railway or canal that upset everything, and we had to begin all over again. It was tremendously hard work.


The station employed up to 300 workers in the late nineteenth century. Mechanisation, improved fuelling systems and modern technology mean that none is  currently employed on the station, on a full-time basis - although this "de-labouring" of the site is presently under review.




It was not until 1998 that the pumping station (much modified) was eventually replaced by the aluminium shed like structure, on the same site, that operates today.

The Bazalgette building is  Grade 2 listed. It has the lay-out of a Greek cross and the walls are faced with Suffolk brick. There are many arched windows on the faces and the roof has dormer windows and is constructed of slate. A lantern with a colonnade rises from the centre of the building.




The overall style owes something to that of an Orthodox church (it is not clear why this design was chosen).  What makes it exceptional is the lavish use of costly materials and ornamentation, such as decorative porches, sculpted masonry, encaustic wall tiles (where the coloured sections run as deep as the tile - rather like sticks of rock), patterned lead and gilded crests.

Most impressive is the internal ornamental ironwork



.
There were two huge chimneys (about 200 feet high) to clear the smoke from the original coal-fired boiler house that fuelled the pumps.  These were taken down in 1941, for fear that they would be bombed and the resulting damage disable the rest of the pumping station.


Stumps left of former chimneys
Other contemporaneous buildings include the Superintendent's house - currently being restored and a number of semi detached (and very desirable) former workers' houses, which fetch up to £900,000 on the property market today.


Superintendent's house, today

The architect was Charles Driver (1832 - 1900), who specialised in engineering based work, especially railways. For reasons that are not clear, he chose to incorporate six different styles of architecture into the buildings - in a way in which no other Victorian building does.

They are:

Italian Venetian - principally in the arched windows and Venetian corkscrew twist incorporated into the rainwater down drainpipes.


Magnificent arched windows


French Gothic - reflected in the internal iron pillars, and tops of the access towers to the beam engines.


Internal iron pillars


Flemish - the influence seen in the steeply pitched roofs.


Steeply pitched roofs


Byzantine/Moorish - shown in the venting chimneys (now gone - see above), which looked like minarets.

Russian orthodox - evident in the cupola, or lantern.


Looking upwards to the cupola
Celtic - seen in brass and copper florets on the east wing doorway.


Splendid doorways
From its origins until the 1930's the pumping station was steam drive, when electricity took over. The original pumping system was effective replaced in 1998 by the modern aluminium structure, but acts as an overflow, during heavy storms, or as a backup, when repairs and maintenance need to be undertaken on the new equipment.




Footnotes

1 Mark and Peter's  popular talk on the Gentrification of Forest Gate will be repeated at the Wanstead Tap on 30 November - see here for tickets (£3), which are in great demand. 




2 Abbey Mills pumping station is rarely open for public viewing, which seems a great pity. Newham Heritage Week organisers managed to get a weekend's viewing for Newham residents during the event.  It was oversubscribed.  The annual London Open House event features tours of the pumping station.  But this can be very heavily oversubscribed too.  For further details and booking, see here.


Difficult to gain a visit, but well worth it

3.One of Joseph Bazalgette's great-great-grandsons is Sir Peter Bazalgette, currently chair of ITV.  In his time he has also been chair of the Arts Council and prior to that was the man that brought Big Brother to British television. 
Sir Peter Bazalgette -
descendant of Joseph

The standing joke at the time was a version of what goes around comes around. Joseph Bazalgette pumped the shit out of London, while his great-great grandson pumped it in. Ho, ho, ho!